Hardwood Flooring Installation Instructions
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Note: Installation Instructions must be followed for warranty to be valid. |
Owner and installer will take full responsibility for all products installed. Industry standards allow for a 5% allowance in grade, in each bundle/box. If you do not like the look of a piece, do not install it. This 5% is not valid under product warranty.
TOOLS REQUIRED: Tape Measure, pencil, circular saw, jigsaw, chalk line, nail punch, glue, sub floor adhesive, hammer, power nailer, 2 cleats (approx. 160 per 2Osqft), 2 finishing nails, underlay paper, and power drill.
MATERIAL ACCLIMATIZATION: Allow the wood to acclimatize to the ambient temperature of the room, The wood must be given 48-72 bourn (at approx. 230C (720C) and a relative humidity of 40-45% before installation.
FLOOR PREPARATION - SUB FLOOR: All floors must be installed with a minimum 5/8 Plywood tongue and groove or equivalent floor boards. It is also important to ensure sub floor moisture is not dramatically higher than that of your hardwood floor (a difference of approximately 4% is acceptable).
Do not install Floors below grade, always install above the soil line of your home.
Do not install Floors over concrete unless an acceptable plywood sub floor has been build over firmly anchored sleepers and a dehumidifier is in place to continuously remove excess humidity from room.
Sweep and vacuum the floor. Insure that old carpet, oils, foreign particles, protruding nails, carpet glue, etc., are removed. Make sure that the sub floor is level, clean, dry, and securely fastened. Repair and/or replace any sections that are unsound or damaged. Remove baseboard moldings and undercut all casings and door jambs by a minimum of 3/4. A flooring paper, or comparable dry sheathing should be laid on sub floor where hardwood flooring is to be installed.
(STEP ft I) STARTING POSITION & PLAN DIRECTION: Where possible flooring strips should be installed perpendicular to the floor joists (Fig. # I). It is recommended that you start your rows on the longest, straightest wall. Lay underlay paper parallel to joist with a 4 overlap, and flush to the wall. Measure out from each wall end 3 1/4 (for 21/4), 4 (for 3 l/4plank). Stretch chalk line from both ends and mark the floor, this will be your start line for the first row. The 3/4 extra will allow for the expansion and contraction of the floor. This gap will be covered up later by your baseboard and quarter round.
(STEP #2)THE FIRST ROW: Always work from at least 5-6 different boxes at one time (when installing in large open areas and where your hardwood floor contains a variety of color and character marks, you should mix your boxes to ensure a more consistent variation). Use the longest pieces available for the first row; this will insure the straightest possible line for your floor. Lay the first row (Fig. #2). With the tongue edge flush to your chalk line. Always lay out as many rows as possible of the product before installing them as to mix lengths and shades of boards, and to ensure that the end joints are staggered a minimum of 4. Pt-c-drill holes 1/2 from the groove side, 8-10 apart on the face of the first row. Nail through the holes with 2 finishing nails; use a nail punch to counter sink the nail. Pre-drill and blind nail (Fig.#3) on a 45 angle through the tongue on 6-8 centers. Use a nail punch to set the nails without damaging the edges of the strips. It is also recommended to use PL400 Adhesive underneath the first row planks.
(STEP #3) SECOND ROW: Start the second row by using the cut piece from the first row. Interlock the boards tightly on the sides and ends. Always offset the end joints 4-6. Blind nail the second row on a 450 angle at 8-10 centers. Always place a nail 2 from every end. Proceed with the next row as you have done with this row. Once there is sufficient clearance to use a power nailer, complete the remainder of the rows with the power nailer.
(STEP #4) BALANCE OF ROWS: Power Nailer Application (Fig.#4). Continue across the room laying out and selecting pieces so that end joints will never line up from row to row. Always tap boards gently together to ensure a tight fit of all strips. Proceed by nailing on 6-8 centers.
(STEP #5) LAST ROWS: The last two rows will require you to follow the same procedure as the first couple of rows. This is required because as you get closer to the wall, you will run out of room for hammering the power nailer. Once this happened, start by blind nailing (Fig.#3) on a 450 angle through the tongue on 6-8 centers. The last row will require you to leave a 3/4 space from the wall. This last row will require you to drill and face nail every 8- 10. After all flooring has been laid, you may fill the nail holes with wood filler to match your floor.
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INSTALLING OVER A CRAWLSPACE |
You may install over a crawl space providing care has been taken to coverall areas of exposed earth with 6, C. 0. S. B. polyethylene. You must also insure that sufficient cross ventilation exists so that no moisture will accumulate.
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INSTALLING OVER RADIANT HEAT |
You may choose to install over radiant heat, however wood flooring is not warranted over radiant heat.
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CARING FOR YOUR NEW HARDWOOD FLOOR |
In order to keep your hardwood floor looking beautiful; follow these simple suggestions to make your floor care easier
o Use only floor cleaners designed for urethane floor finishes
Keep floor mats at all entranceways to keep dirt and moisture from being tracked on your floor. Always use high quality mats or rugs.
Vacuum and sweep your floor as often as required to eliminate debris from your floor
Wipe up any spills immediately
Use furniture protectors (felt pads, etc.) under all furniture. When moving furniture or appliances, put large heavy blankets underneath to avoid scratches and dents.
The use of woodstove, fireplace, or electric heat will create very dry conditions in your home. Maintaining an average humidity level of 45-50% will decrease the expansion and contraction in your floor.
Spiked & high heel shoes exert a tremendous amount of pressure in such a small area
Hardwood floors require that area rugs and mats have underpadding with not inherent abrasives.
Congratulations on your new floor!